Top 10 Summer Fragrances 2008

Every year I wait for the summer impatiently, even if I know that once the mercury levels start rising, I shall be miserable and cranky. Yet, the idea of a summer escape, of azure waves, of golden sand sticking to the skin, of ripe peaches, of jasmine scented nights is too irresistible, too seductive. My summer of 2008 is none of these things (save for jasmine and peaches.) It is filled with work projects, and whatever escape I manage lies in books and perfume. A spray of something orange blossom scented, and I am transported to Riviera. A hint of dark woods and cardamom, and I am having a cup of coffee someplace in the Omani oasis. The perfumes below are just that—tickets for my escapist fantasies. ...

Christian Dior Escale a Portofino : Perfume Review

In sartorial terms, an effervescent citrus cologne is as versatile and timeless as a tailored suit or a little black dress. It is immediately appealing and effortlessly chic, while still having a striking presence. Yet, after a while all little black dresses start to look similar, and all colognes exhibit that familiar fresh burst followed by the floral sweetness or the woody dryness. As one knows all too well, familiarity breeds contempt. In this light, I have put the newest cologne offering, Christian Dior Escale à Portofino, to test….

Serge Noire by Serge Lutens: New Fragrance Release

In addition to El Attarine, Serge Lutens will issue Serge Noire in July 2008, a fragrance for the export collection. Serge Noire. Serge is a type of twill fabric (in fact, French word serge is derived from Latin serica, itself from Greek σηρικος (serikos), meaning "silken",) the finest variety of which was used for delicate linings, while the rougher weave was used for military uniforms.

The press release describes the idea behind Serge Noire in these poetic terms: "The ether of ashes... A phoenix, the mythical bird of legend burns at the height of its splendour before emerging triumphant, reborn from the ashes in a choreography of flame, conjuring the shapes of yesterday in a dance of ashes. The swirls of oriental grey enrich the twilight with depth and intensity while windswept memories hint at the beauty of transformation. An ode to everlasting beauty under cover of night's rich plumage."

From Serge Lutens press release.

Serge Lutens El Attarine : New Perfume Release

The fans of Serge Lutens will be excited to hear the news that two new fragrances are about to join the collection: El Attarine and Serge Noire. The exclusive range will see the debut of El Attarine Eau de Parfum, which is described in the following manner in the press release:

"In Arab countries, 'attarin' means sweet-smelling, and refers to everything within the realm of the 'atar': fragrance, heart, flavour and essence.

There is no distinction between the olfactory and the gustatory, until the moment when you decide whether to taste or smell. ...

Frederic Malle Angeliques Sous la Pluie : Perfume Review

Angéliques Sous la Pluie is a sleeper of the Frédéric Malle collection. Next to the opulent blossoms of Carnal Flower, the delicious darkness of Vetiver Extraordinaire or the smoldering beauty of Noir Epices, its ethereal presence can be perceived as somewhat muted. However, spray it on your skin first thing in the morning and inhale… Effervescent, luminous, pleasantly dry, Angéliques Sous la Pluie is like a sip of champagne. Its simplicity and elegance are so masterfully expressed that it manages to achieve that elusive quality of subtle signature—of memorable presence and delicate aura. …

Lancome Magnifique : New Fragrance Launch

Last night, at the Grand Palais in Paris , Lancôme presented Magnifique, its newest fragrance which olfactively interprets the color red. Anne Hathaway is Lancôme's newest ambassador, who will be featured in the advertising campaign. The fragrance, a spicy woody floral, was created by Firmenich perfumers Olivier Cresp and Jacques Cavallier. As WWD reported this morning, "'The challenge was to work on wood [notes]," said Cresp, explaining the women's fragrance market has few woody juices. While he and Cavalllier were in India they came upon nagarmota, a plant giving iff a woody odor. They liked it so much, they opted to use nagarmota essential oil in Magnifique." Other notes include saffron essence, cumin, Bulgarian rose essence, Mai de Grasse rose absolute, jasmine, Australian sandalwood essence and a vetiver note.

Magnifique will launch in August in the US (where it will be exclusive to Bloomingdale's at first) and in September elsewhere.  India, roses, red... I am adding this launch to the list of new fragrances to anticipate!

Lancome Cyclades : Perfume Review and On Duty-Free Shopping

Given the fact that flying is such a nuisance these days, I can do without olfactory ennui at duty-free shops. However, unless one chooses to stock up on the old favorites, the duty-free shelves offer little olfactory excitement. The choices range from uninspired to comical. By way of example, Dior and Givenchy seem to favor pale fruity-florals and lots of pronouns (Dior Me, Dior Me Not, My Givenchy, My Givenchy Dream). Bali in Kenzo’s inexplicably named 7:15am in Bali smells like a vodka cocktail. Then, I am led to conclude that the only thing that caused Azzaro to name their travel retail scent Jetlag was perhaps being in such a state indeed. On the other hand, what could be their excuse for Cockpit? …